Let's cut right to the chase, because I know that's why you're here. You saw a picture of this stunning, pueblo-style building sitting on the rim of the Painted Desert, and you thought, "I need to book a room there." I had the exact same reaction on my first Arizona road trip. The short, direct, and slightly disappointing answer is no, you cannot stay at the Painted Desert Inn. It hasn't functioned as a hotel or lodge for decades.
But—and this is a huge but—that doesn't mean you should skip it. Far from it. Asking "can you stay at the Painted Desert Inn" is really asking the wrong question. The right question is, "Is the Painted Desert Inn worth visiting even though I can't sleep there?" And to that, the answer is a resounding yes. It's one of the most fascinating historic stops in the entire Southwest, and understanding why you can't stay there is part of its story.
Quick Reality Check: The Painted Desert Inn is a National Historic Landmark operated by the National Park Service (NPS) as a museum and visitor center. It offers restrooms, a small bookstore, and incredible views, but no beds for the night. The last time it took overnight guests was back in 1963.
I remember pulling up, guidebook in hand, fully expecting a check-in desk. The silence of the desert, the sheer scale of the landscape, and then this beautiful, lonely building. It felt like stepping onto a movie set that everyone had left. A park ranger greeted me with a smile that seemed to say, "You're not the first to ask." That moment of confusion turned into a full afternoon of discovery. Let's dig into what it really is, why it's special, and most importantly, where you can lay your head after exploring.
From Harvey House to National Treasure: The Inn's Colorful History
To appreciate why staying at the Painted Desert Inn isn't an option, you have to understand its journey. This isn't a story of failure; it's a story of preservation winning over profit.
The original structure was built in the 1920s, a rustic lodge of local stone and wood. But its golden era began in the late 1930s when the Fred Harvey Company—the folks who basically invented civilized travel along the railroads—took over. They hired architect Mary Colter, the genius behind many iconic Grand Canyon buildings. She redesigned it into the Pueblo Revival masterpiece you see today, blending seamlessly with the landscape.
For a traveler in the 1940s and 50s, arriving here was the height of sophistication. Imagine stepping off the iconic Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway, being greeted by Harvey Girls, dining in a room with hand-painted beams, and watching the sunset paint the desert in a million colors. It was a remote oasis.
The inn served as a social hub, a dining destination, and a gateway to the then-new Petrified Forest National Monument. Its heyday was brilliant but, like the era of long-distance train travel, it wasn't destined to last forever.
With the rise of the interstate highway system (I-40 runs nearby), travel patterns changed. People zipped past in cars instead of stopping by train. Maintaining a full-service lodge in such a remote location became tough. The inn closed to overnight guests in 1963. It limped along as a day-use facility for a while, falling into disrepair.
Here's the good part. Instead of being demolished, it was recognized for its incredible historic and architectural value. The National Park Service took over, and a major restoration project in the early 2000s brought it back to its Mary Colter-era glory. They stabilized the structure, preserved the amazing interior murals by Hopi artist Fred Kabotie, and made it safe for the public to enjoy—just not to sleep in.
So when you visit, you're walking through a carefully preserved slice of Americana. You can stand in the same lounge where mid-century tourists mingled, see the original furniture, and admire the craftsmanship. It's a museum dedicated to its own life story. That's a pretty fair trade for not getting a hotel key, in my opinion.
Okay, If I Can't Stay There, Where *Can* I Stay?
This is the million-dollar question, right? The area around Petrified Forest National Park is famously remote. There is no lodging inside the park itself. Zero. Not even campgrounds (backcountry hiking permits are available, but that's a different adventure). So planning where to sleep is your top logistical task.
You basically have two directions to go: east or west along I-40. Your choice depends on your route. Heading towards New Mexico? Look east. Heading towards Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon? Look west.
| Town / Location | Direction from Painted Desert Inn | Distance & Drive Time | What You'll Find | Personal Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Holbrook, AZ | West (~20 mins) | ~16 miles / 20-25 min | Your main hub. Chain hotels (Best Western, Days Inn, Holiday Inn Express), mom-and-pop motels, restaurants, gas stations. | The most practical and popular base. Nothing fancy, but it has all the essentials. Some of the classic Route 66 motels are fun for nostalgia. |
| Petrified Forest NP - South Entrance Area | South (~45 mins through park) | ~35 miles / 45 min (scenic drive) | Just outside the south entrance, there are a few very basic independent motels and the Rainbow Forest Museum area. | Quieter than Holbrook. Good if you want to be first in line at the south gate. Options are extremely limited—book early! |
| Gallup, NM | East (~1 hour) | ~60 miles / 55-70 min | Larger town with more hotel and dining variety. Rich in Native American arts and culture. | A solid choice if you're coming from/aligned with New Mexico. The historic El Rancho Hotel is a fantastic, kitschy piece of Route 66 history worth seeing. |
| Flagstaff, AZ | West (~1.75 hours) | ~110 miles / 1 hr 45 min | Major city with all amenities, a vibrant downtown, great food, and access to the San Francisco Peaks. | My preferred base for multi-day exploring. It's a drive, but you get a great town, cooler temps, and it's a perfect jump-off for the Grand Canyon, Sedona, etc. |
| Winslow, AZ | West (~1 hour) | ~55 miles / 1 hr | Famous for "Standin' on the Corner." A handful of hotels and a charming, slowly revitalizing downtown. | A good middle-ground between Holbrook and Flagstaff. Less generic than Holbrook, more low-key than Flagstaff. La Posada Hotel is a stunning, restored Harvey House—a taste of what the Painted Desert Inn once was. |
My advice? If your trip is solely about Petrified Forest, book a night in Holbrook. It's close and easy. If you're on a broader Arizona road trip, I'd lean towards spending a night in Flagstaff or Winslow and driving to the park in the morning. The drive from Flagstaff is beautiful, and you get a much more interesting town to return to in the evening.
And let's be honest—after learning you cannot stay at the Painted Desert Inn, finding a good alternative is crucial. Book your accommodation before you arrive, especially during summer or holiday weekends. These are small towns with limited rooms.
What Should You Do When You Get There?
Alright, so you've accepted you're going for a visit, not a sleepover. What's the experience actually like? It's a highlight of the Painted Desert side of the park.
First, you'll enter the park at the Painted Desert Visitor Center (north entrance off I-40). Pay your park entrance fee—it's good for 7 days. Get your map, ask the rangers any questions, and then drive the short, scenic loop road towards the inn itself. It's impossible to miss.
Inside the Inn: What to See and Feel
Walking through the heavy wooden door is a step back in time. The air is cool and still. Immediately, you'll notice the incredible craftsmanship: the carved wooden ceiling beams (called *vigas*), the patterned concrete floors, the huge stone fireplace. Look up at the murals. Fred Kabotie's Hopi-style paintings depict traditional ceremonies and stories. They're not just decoration; they're a cultural bridge, commissioned by Mary Colter to honor the region's indigenous people.
Rangers or volunteers are usually on hand to answer questions. Talk to them! They know the best stories—about the Harvey Girls, about the construction challenges, about ghost stories (every old inn has them). Sometimes, you can even see the original guest registers.
A Heads-Up: The inn's hours can be seasonal. It's not open 24/7 like a hotel lobby would be. Always check the current Petrified Forest National Park Operating Hours page on the official NPS website before you go. It typically closes by late afternoon.
The best part? The back porch. Step outside and that's when the "wow" hits. The view is breathtaking. The multi-hued badlands of the Painted Desert stretch out below you, silent and vast. This is the view guests paid for. Find a bench, sit for a while, and just take it in. This is why the place was built here.
Beyond the Inn: Maximizing Your Park Day
Don't just see the inn and leave. The 28-mile park road connects the Painted Desert in the north to the Petrified Forest in the south. You'll want to drive the whole thing.
- Painted Desert Overlooks: Multiple pull-outs along the rim offer different perspectives of the colorful hills.
- Blue Mesa: This is a must-do. A 3-mile loop road and trail takes you down into a landscape of purple, blue, and grey badlands and petrified wood chunks. It feels otherworldly.
- Newspaper Rock: View ancient petroglyphs from a distance with provided telescopes.
- The Tepees: Striking cone-shaped hills banded in color.
- Crystal Forest & Giant Logs Trails: At the south end, these easy walks put you face-to-face with the park's namesake: massive, glittering logs of petrified wood.
You need a solid 3-5 hours to see the park properly. Since you can't stay at the Painted Desert Inn, plan your day to enjoy the inn as a magnificent pit stop—a place to use clean restrooms, get water, enjoy the museum, and soak in the prime view.
Your Top Questions, Answered Honestly
I've gotten a lot of questions from fellow travelers about this place. Here are the real answers, no fluff.
Why did the Painted Desert Inn stop being a hotel?
The main reason was the decline of railroad travel and the rise of automobiles. I-40 made it easier to bypass the inn entirely. Maintaining a remote, full-service lodge became economically unviable. Preservation as a historic site was deemed more valuable than struggling to keep it open as a business.
Is there any plan to ever reopen it for overnight stays?
Almost certainly not. Its designation as a National Historic Landmark and its primary function as a museum under the National Park Service make a return to commercial lodging highly unlikely. The focus is on protecting the structure and sharing its history with all visitors, not a select few paying guests. And honestly, adapting it to modern hotel standards (sprinklers, extensive plumbing, accessibility retrofits) could compromise its historic fabric.
What are the best alternatives that *feel* like the Painted Desert Inn?
If you love the historic Harvey House/Route 66 vibe, you have fantastic options nearby:
- La Posada Hotel in Winslow, AZ: Another stunning Mary Colter-designed Harvey House, beautifully restored and still a functioning hotel. Staying here gives you the experience you might have imagined for the Painted Desert Inn.
- El Rancho Hotel in Gallup, NM: A legendary Route 66 motor lodge famous for hosting Hollywood stars. It's full of character and history.
- Wigwam Motel in Holbrook, AZ: Sleep in a concrete teepee! It's a classic, kitschy, and fun piece of Americana right on Route 66.
Can you eat at the Painted Desert Inn?
No, there is no restaurant or dining service. The original Fred Harvey dining room is part of the museum exhibit. You should bring snacks and water into the park. Holbrook and other nearby towns are your spots for meals.
Is it worth visiting Petrified Forest just to see the Inn?
It's a major draw, but the park itself is the star. The inn is the incredible gateway. Seeing the inn without exploring the park's trails and vistas would be like only reading the introduction to a great book. The combination is what makes the trip special.
Look, I get the initial letdown. The idea of staying at the Painted Desert Inn is romantic. Waking up to that desert sunrise from your room would be unforgettable. But what we have instead is something arguably more democratic and enduring: a beautifully preserved piece of history that everyone can access for the price of a park entry. You can still stand in the same spots, feel the same awe at the landscape, and connect to a bygone era of travel. That's a pretty good deal. So pack your bag for Holbrook or Flagstaff, get your park pass, and go explore one of Arizona's most unique and underrated treasures. You won't regret it.
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